Yesterday’s session

Even mediocre conditions can make great sessionsI saw a surfer in the water smiling big. Conditions were middling. Closeouts. Pretty choppy. There were some corners to be had, but a lot of fierce paddling by surfers ending in not-ridden waves. The smiling man was smiling SO BIG. He looked like maybe he’d burst into song–like a 1950s Hollywood Musical. Not a young guy. Not too old. His ebullience was intriguing. I saw him take off on a wave. I moved a bit away. When I go out and bodysurf with surfers around I make sure to respect the lineup and steer clear of any kind of collision. I don’t want to mess up anyone’s ride or get hit by surfboard or surfer. I dove under the whitewater. When I came back up, he hadn’t gone far, but he was still smiling. He idly said to me, still smiling, “how you doin’ man?” I said, “good man! Pretty day. How are you?” He said “I’m so good. First time surfing in 3 years!” I asked him, “what kept you out of the water?” “I broke my back and leg, they were…