We were on the Camino by 0730 just as the day was lightening up. It didn’t take long to reclaim the path. We walked through a tunnel painted with a pilgrim mural, regained our Camino rhythm and began our 12-mile day. A kilometer marker indicated we were under 100 km (~60 miles) from Santiago. A morning mist hung over the vineyards and farmlands. Smoke curled out of chimneys. Hay had just been cut. It smelled fresh and earthy. It was quiet and peaceful and a lovely way to start the day. We reached the small town of Mos. A Pilgrim souvenir store, Bo Camiño, was open and several pilgrims were loading up on souvenirs. Tees, shells, magnets, hats, staffs, badges, pins, patches… you name it, they had it and some folks were buying. We browsed, but the thought of adding more weight to carry in our packs dissuaded us from any purchases. Mos is known for its handmade bobbin lace, encaixe de bolillos, and on closer inspection, we noticed that the town’s sign had been created in the traditional…
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