Almond Biscotti with Crisp Twice-Baked Centers

Almond biscotti are baked twice: first as a log that sets the dough, then as slices that dry into a crisp cookie. The method rewards even shaping and careful slicing. A log that is much thicker in the center bakes unevenly, while slicing it while very hot can make the cookies crumble. Shape and slice evenly Lightly damp hands make sticky dough easier to shape. Form an even log with a slightly flattened top, and keep the ends similar in width to the middle. After the first bake, let it rest until firm enough to handle but still warm. Use a serrated knife and a gentle sawing motion to cut slices without crushing the almonds. Arrange slices with a little space between them for the second bake. Turn them if the oven browns one side more quickly. The finished biscotti should feel dry and crisp after cooling; they firm further as they lose heat. If they remain soft in the center, return them to a low oven briefly and check again rather than raising the heat and darkening the edges. Keep the…

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