Zonda, at The Halfway, Kineton

It’s a brave thing to change a restaurant that people already love. Especially when that restaurant happens to be a pub in the Cotswolds where people have become rather attached to the idea that Sunday lunch should involve a serious quantity of beef, potatoes in at least two forms and enough gravy to make a cardiologist nervous. The Halfway at Kineton had established itself as exactly that sort of place. Under Nathan Eades and Liam Goff, it became a destination for people who appreciate cooking that takes its job seriously without taking itself too seriously. It was a proper pub, doing rather wonderful things with food, and people were happy to tell you about it. But restaurants, like people, are allowed to change their minds. And so The Halfway has embarked on a new chapter with the arrival of Zonda, a pizza operation bringing a little Italian inspiration to this corner of Gloucestershire. Nathan mentioned to me some time back that he was thinking of turning it into a pizza…

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