Slick Zich

Back in September I promised a return visit to the beers of Zichovec, as they had been starting to appear in their stylish new livery. And I promised to include a lager. So here we are.The pleasure of Zichovec begins with picking up the can: that extra 60ml over the standard results in an immediate feeling of being treated. This can contains Devítka, a session lager of 9° Plato, or 3.6% ABV in our money. That's a tricky format in which to make a good beer, though the visuals here are excellent, with a bright golden body -- slightly hazed -- and a handsome head of stiff white foam. The aroma is rich and sweet, like that of a luxurious Munich Helles, while the hops wait for the flavour to arrive. That's classically Czech, of course: lightly grassy with a flinty mineral edge, and meticulously balanced. But they can't possibly have given it a properly full body at 9°, can they? Reader, they have. I found this indistinguishable from a precision-engineered full-strength světlý ležák, with…

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