Land, Birmingham

In June 2020 Jay Rayner wrote about Land, and then, somewhat more importantly, in August 2022 so did I. I have no idea what Jay (lovely man, big hair, big shoes, etc) ate, nor can I be arsed to look to look it up, but I know what I had; little tartlets, and tuiles, and inspiration that ran across Europe and into the far east like an episode of Race Across The World, finished off with a sweet and bright strawberry dessert that kissed away summer with a big juicy snog. I loved it, just like the man with the big hair and the big shoes did, and especially in the way that people who live a plant based diet do. Land, it is very much safe to say, plays a very important part of the Birmingham restaurant dynamic, from a tiny space in the very pretty Great Western Arcade. That menu is unrecognisable to the one we are served on a blustery October afternoon. The descriptions have always been vague and ingredient led, though now they point directly to the Far East. Dishes such as ‘Rice – Onion –…