Deathrow Kitchen at Hare & Hounds, Kings Heath

I was going to start this piece riffing on the name of Deathrow Kitchen. I had a whole thing on mortality planned, a subtle use of the word execution to slot into the cooking parts, and a not-so-subtle part about Deathrow now just being called Row in certain parts of America. But that’s naff and I am many, many things, but naff I am not. So I’ll just pull out the big guns (or should that be firing squad?!) straight away; Dom Clarke is behind the cooking. Miss the cooking at Caneat? Go Deathrow Kitchen. Can’t afford The Plough? Go Deathrow Kitchen. Like tasty and delicious cooking? You get the point. Basically just go to Deathrow Kitchen. It’s quite brilliant. They describe the cooking as ‘the dirty south’, which, given Dom’s background I’ll take to mean the Lowcountry belt of America and not Clapton-on-sea. Many years ago Dom was a part of The Soul Food Project, a collective of bright young sparks that put Cajun food into various kitchens. He knows this food. It makes perfect sense to…