The Golden Tooth, Newington Green

"There's nowhere good to eat in Newington Green", nobody ever says. You'd think a part of town that already hosted Parilla, Jolene, Cadet and Primeur not to mention the dozens of top-quality ocakbasi and Eritrean/Ethiopian spots up and down Green Lanes, wouldn't need yet another notable spot, and yet here we are. I'm sorry if I sound like a stuck record, but as a Battersea resident yes of course I appreciate what Ploussard are doing, but I shouldn't have to rely on one (admittedly excellent) place to shoulder the weight of mid-budget fine dining for an entire square mile of south west London. Yes, OK Archway is good too, but that's pretty much Vauxhall. And Soif? That closed last year. Anyway, you're not here to listen to yet another tiny-violin rant about how bad I have it in SW11, so back to N16. The Golden Tooth (not a particularly appetising name, I know) is run by the team behind the recently-closed Papi in Hackney, which I quite liked despite the cramped room and a broken…