670 Grams, Birmingham

I love restaurants of all kinds. All budgets, all styles, all cuisines, whatever the location and whatever the level of ambition. I can be equally happy ordering a mixed grill at Tayyabs as being cossetted by the world class service at the Ledbury. There are many different ways to enjoy the talent in kitchens here and elsewhere in the world, and it seems silly to restrict yourself to any kind of comfort zone when there's such joy to be found in discovering something new, or going out of your way to gather new experiences. All that said, I'm not too ashamed to say I'm a bit of a sucker for an ambitious fine-dining tasting menu. While I appreciate some people don't get on with them, I've always thought that if you like eating out at all, the modern British fine dining tasting menu can be the ultimate expression of everything the restaurant experience can be. It's become trendy to dismiss Michelin-level cooking as pretentious nonsense - and believe me, it certainly can be, but when it's…