Impala, Soho

If you know what to look for, you can work out the restaurant lineage of Impala just from a quick scan of the menu. Firstly, and most importantly, you want to try every last item - a feat frustratingly unavailable unless you're eating with at least ten of your friends. Between four of us last week, I think we managed to try about half of what was on offer, and looking back on the menu now some of the things we had to leave unordered still make me quite sad. But it's the attention to ingredient detail that's another giveaway - strictly seasonal foraged things like greengage and wild herbs, intelligently placed offal such as sweetbreads and caul fat, and - the big flashing neon light as far as I'm concerned - the presence of Matt Chatfield's cull yaw, an extraordinary product which means only one thing: this is a Super 8 restaurant. Together with Brat, Smoking Goat, Kiln and Mountain, places that are regularly spoken about as some of the best in London, a Super 8 restaurant is a stamp…