3 hours ago · 10 min read2015 words · Life · hide · 0 comments

Now it’s time to build the hull. Design The dry hull needs to be rigid and transparent – an acrylic cylinder with flat ends is good. The diameter will be 12 cm. I initially started designing for 10 cm, but soon realized that the moving weight, motors, ballast tank, extra weight, and electronics would be too cramped. So 12 cm is a better choice. The length will be 25 cm. The outside (wet hull) will have a round front. Hopefully, this will keep it travelling straight at full speed. If the submarine fails to go straight (fishtails or turns sideways), then we’ll have to think about adding tail fins or a round rear as well. Top view sketch. Main hull cylinder For the main hull, I bought an acrylic plastic cylinder from simplyplastics on eBay.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254457326025 The length is 250 mm, the outer diameter is 120 mm and the inner diameter is 114 mm. The wall thickness is 3 mm. One modification to make to the hull cylinder are lead-in chamfers. Without them, the o-rings will…

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