Greenland: seen a lot, had enough

This morning I woke up rested, and buoyant. I quickly realised why: the disquiet that had accompanied me since we left Iceland had vanished. We arrived in Cartwright yesterday, after crossing the Labrador Sea from Greenland. A solid wooden quay, a harbour sheltered from offshore weather. Not a single iceberg on the horizon. We saw more of Greenland than planned, and less. More, because the weather pushed us up the east coast on the crossing from Iceland. Less, because a weather window opened early to cross to Canada. All the boats travelling with us were taking the window. Many had already crossed. We'd seen a lot already, and we'd had enough, too: floating ice, unplanned gusts, anchorages that were never quite right. Our Greenland passage The East Coast was one of the best surprises of the trip. We'd initially excluded it: too icy, not enough safe anchorages, a permit needed to go ashore. It was all that. It was also like no other place we've been: remote, wild, mountains covered by…