1 hour ago · Life · hide · 0 comments

he turned around to pick me up. two softcovered surfboards, two landry baskets lined with plasitc bags and a relaxed face fill the small car. i find place sitting in the trunk. actually two. my backpack resting on the wave riding devices. my butt slowly getting wet by means of the leaking wetsuit. in aurstalia is where he picked up on surfing, working holiday. now he is working as a driver. his days off he goes surfing. he drives me right to the door. its a museum i want to visit before checking into a shower and a real bed. i get out and thank him for the ride. not a word was said about where he was going, he just wanted to know where he should take me. its the world that tells him where to go. the people where they want to be picked up and dropped, the waves commanding until where he can go, where to break. he works for wind energy. before he worked in kobe at kawasakis submarine doc. i saw it once, cloaked in black nets to obscure from overly curious views. before that, he wasnt…

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