A shark was between me and the shore

If you’re an aging surfer seeking a relaxed break on the south shore of O‘ahu and don’t mind a semi-long paddle out, Tonggs is for you. Look up and you see Diamond Head, to the left all of Waikīkī. Fun, consistent waves over a mix of reef, rocks, and sandbars. It fronts a sea wall, with only two entry points over about a half mile of shoreline. Sharks aren’t unknown there or anywhere in the islands, but when a shark is observed behaving aggressively near shore—thrashing, splashing, hunting—signs are posted, and beaches sometimes closed. You read the title, so you know how this story starts. Out on my longboard, yielding every wave anyone else was even distantly riding, just happy to be out there. Got my share of leftovers then started the long paddle back in. By myself. About halfway back to shore I heard a splash maybe 100 feet ahead of me, that I thought was a random wave crashing on a shallow part of the inside reef. Then the unmistakeable intense, rhythmic thrash of a very big…