Hausu review – eclectic dishes pull into railway restaurant

Coal Rooms Peckham is no more, but its replacement is far better. Given that I’ve now been reviewing restaurants for 15-odd years, it’s perhaps surprising that I haven’t been to more restaurants that have taken over the premises previously occupied by another restaurant. If there’s one constant in London’s restaurant scene, then it’s one of seemingly constant churn, evolution and reinvention. The main dining room has only changed a bit since its Coal Rooms days. Hausu sits within the former ticket office of Peckham Rye station, previously home of the Coal Rooms, which was an underwhelming Temper-a-like. The main dining room, kitchen counter and the toilets haven’t changed hugely since Coal Rooms’ day. Hausu’s menu, which refreshes reasonably frequently, on the other hand is very different from that stolid, monolithic meat feast with a selection of dishes that pulls in eclectic influences from all over. Every sign has a story behind it. Starters and side dishes at Hausu There’s clearly…