The Cocochine, London

Forty quid doesn’t get you much these days. Five pints and the right to stand outside The Devonshire. One and a half Domino’s pizzas. Half a tank of petrol and/or half an hour in an Uber. Sandwich, crisps, and a drink at Euston Station. Tom Kerridge’s fish and chips. A Deliveroo for one along with the general warmth of knowing the restaurant will see almost two-thirds of that. Right now forty quid feels like the kind of sum we forget we’ve spent on the day, wilfully pissing it into the air on public transport, coffee, and a couple of pints to finish. So when the guys sitting next to us at lunch suggest that The Cocochine suckers you in with their forty quid lunch, we agree wholeheartedly. We are here purely for that forty quid lunch. Forty quid in a plush Mayfair restaurant doesn’t happen very often. It feels like a bygone era. So now I’m going to explain how the three of us spent a lot more than that in the quite gorgeous four story Mayfair town house. First there is water, followed…