Every year I like to give myself a little dessert challenge to celebrate my birthday. I like cake, but there are about 20 desserts I’d choose before it – so this year I went with a spin on one of my all-time favorites: Paris-Brest. Claire Saffitz’s Black Sesame Paris-Brest starts with a classic pâte à choux ring sprinkled with black sesame seeds. I don’t know if I was having an off day or if the choux gods simply had other plans, but I could not get that ring to puff and stay puffed the way I wanted – someone called it a “brest reduction”. After three attempts, it still wasn’t the dramatic, golden crown I had pictured, but by round three, slightly overbaked and emotionally defeated, I decided we were assembling anyway. Instead of the traditional hazelnut praline cream, Claire fills this version with a black sesame pastry cream, which is divine. I can never find black tahini, so I make my own with black sesame seeds and a little roasted sesame oil, and honestly it works beautifully –…
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