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It was a cold, damp night at the Estabulo de Valhinas and we slept poorly. There was no breakfast available in the morning, so we left early, quietly closing the gate behind us. A light morning mist hovered over the newly planted fields providing an ethereal look to the local landscape. We somehow missed the only cafe that served coffee in the little village. Woe was us! We were, however, pretty psyched about getting to Ponte de Lima, so we managed to contain our despair. We’d been on the Camino for a week and were looking forward to a day off.The day warmed and the sun came out which immediately improved our attitudes. We heard some nearby baaing and stopped momentarily to let some sheep pass on the path. Vineyards are everywhere in Portugal. We walked under a canopy through a tunnel of grapevines which seemed absolutely lovely. David pointed out the tiny grape clusters that were just beginning to form. We seemed to have walked forever. We were hungry and jonesing for our galao and…

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